Whoever has visited the Montenegrin coast yet knows what I am talking about: turquoise water, deep blue skies, small villages by the coast framed by sublime mountains are distinctive for the coastal region of the small country. Despite the overcrowded World Heritage Site, the city of Kotor, the state kept its image as a jewel of the Mediterranean Sea. Different from overtraveled regions like the Amalfi Coast and the Cinque Terre, pictureresque places like Herceg Novi, Budva or Perast are still manageable. The back-country, places such as Cetinje the former capital or the medieval-character Stari Bar, is pretty easygoing.
In the land of the black mountains
Montenegro is not only interesting for sunbather and bathing beauties. The land oft he black mountains (Monte = mountain, negro = black) offers everything the hiker’s heart desires. On a ten-days-journey I could see for myself how beautiful the mountainside of Crna Gora is, that’s the name for Montenegro in national language. The tour started in Prčanj, via Stari Bar and finally Herceg Novi. We climed the „ladder of Kotor“, the Vrmac, the Jezerski Vrh, the Rumija and the Zubacki Kabao.
Already twelve years ago I have visited Montenegro for the first time. I stayed in a place called Budva then. From Budva we also visited Dubrovnik. I discourage you from doing so meanwhile. Not only because the walk on top of the city wall costs 30,00 Euros by now (it was 5,00 Euros then). It is rather the enormous amount crusadors that overflow Dubrovnik and Kotor daily – you won’t see much of the places anyway.
So, whoever is looking for calmness and nativeness (just like me), should leave the beaten tracks.
Our hiking destinations: We starte off at the Bay of Kotor, the most southern fjord of Europe. We climbed the fortress of Kotor – exactly the ruins of it – and walked beyond it for a while in order to find a perfect picnic place.
The next day we climbed Sveti Illija (765m) – almost, as we were running out of time. We then drove to Lovcén national park to climb Jezerski Vrh (1657 m) and visit the Njegoš-mausoleum and later Cetinje, the old capital of Crna Gora.
On our fifth day we left Prčanj. We drove to the Rumija-mountains passing by the Skutari lake. From there we hiked to Stari Bar. It is worth to visit the old part of the town in the sunset light – magnificient.
Moments of joy
Next day we climbed the Rumija (1.594) itself – a real adventure. The way back is a long descent of 1.200 difference of altitude along an awesome gorge. We take a relaxing footbath en route before we reach Stari Bar again.
We spent the penultimate hiking-day in the Pastrovacka mountains. We walk high above the coast between Sveti Stefan and Petrovac. A really nice trail with marvellous views. On our way down we pass by an interesting church with wall paintings and a monastary.
Our last walk is the way up to the Zubacki Kaboa (1.894 m) in the Orjen-mountains. The area is known for its heavy rainfalls – however we are lucky that day. We have blue skies and an overwhelming view from the top.