A Winter’s tale: The Aosta Valley
For years I had wanted to escape to a mountain hut in the snow over Christmas and New Year’s Eve. Last year it finally happened—and my expectations of the adventure were exceeded by far. What follows is my recommendation for all hiking- and snow-loving explorers who can imagine a compact yet varied Christmas and New Year’s trip to the snow-covered Aosta Valley in Italy. The journey began two days before Christmas Eve and lasted until early January. This is exactly the time when the Alps are blanketed in deep powder snow and the villages are festively illuminated. Why this tour might also be interesting for you is obvious: you can experience the quiet beauty of the mountains, try your first cross-country skiing and snowshoeing adventures, ascend the spectacular Skyway Monte Bianco up to 3,462 meters, and enjoy authentic Italian winter culture—all without the crowds.
The setting was the very heart of the Alps: from your cozy wooden apartment with a pellet stove in Rhemes-Saint-Georges, through the historic alleys of Introd and the imposing Sarre Castle, to the alpine village of Cogne with its legendary “Bar à Fromage,” where we enjoyed goat-cheese raclette on Christmas Eve. For traveling from Germany, I recommend taking the Great St. Bernard Tunnel. It costs €30 each way (outbound and return), but it’s worth it, as the mountain passes are often closed in winter. On the way there, we made a stop in Weil am Rhein. We brought our cross-country skis with us and rented snowshoes locally. Under no circumstances should you miss the Skyway trip up Mont Blanc—the €60 ticket is money well spent in my opinion. The mix of athletic challenges, cultural discoveries, and cozy après-ski made this winter adventure in the Aosta Valley an unforgettable experience for us—one we might very well repeat.
Traveling via Switzerland
We traveled from northern Germany and spent the first night in Weil am Rhein. We were surprised by how affluent the town is, located at the junction of Switzerland, France, and Germany. The shopping centers are quite impressive, and both Swiss and French shoppers seem to come here. Of course, we also took the time to visit the Three Countries Bridge and walked across to Huningue. However, on that side of the Rhine there wasn’t much going on at all, so we quickly headed back.
The next day we continued through Switzerland to the Great St. Bernard Tunnel. Driving through the Alpine republic is very pleasant thanks to the speed limits. From Valais, the route leads directly through the Great St. Bernard Tunnel into the Aosta Valley (a drive through the tunnel costs €30). Once there, we were immediately captivated by the winter wonderland. Passing the provincial capital of Aosta, the navigation system guided us safely to our holiday destination, Rhemes-Saint-Georges. Admittedly, the village is certainly not a hotspot for party people. But for anyone whose main focus is experiencing nature, it is paradise.
Our apartment is really cozy, and we feel at home right away. We immediately took a liking to the pellet stove by the entrance of the apartment. In the evening we wanted to buy a few ingredients for a salad, which turned out not to be quite so easy. We drove to Introd to La Bottega del Paese da Francesca Manfredi. Unfortunately, the shop was not only poorly stocked but also incredibly loud—the boombox was blasting at full volume. Still, we managed to get baby spinach, sliced fennel, and a bar of hand soap, so it did the trick 🙂
Snow Adventures in Cogne
The next day we head to the mountain village of Cogne. I had already been there once in the fall for hiking. There, we pick up the Aosta Valley Card, which offers various discounts. We also gather information about the Skyway Monte Bianco and try to find a restaurant for New Year’s Eve. Eventually, we make our way back to the apartment through swirling snowfall.
Top-Class Goat Cheese Raclette
On the third day, we set off by car for Rhemes-Notre-Dame, which is essentially the ski resort in our region. Once there—more precisely, in the “suburb” of Chaveney—we want to rent snowshoes. At first, this turns out not to be so easy, because the shop owner thinks we want to buy winter boots. Well, after a bit of back and forth, we manage to make ourselves understood.
It’s our first time walking with snowshoes, and we decide to start with a foolproof beginner route. That’s no problem in this small ski resort. What does become a problem, however, is that after a while my feet start to freeze and we get blisters from the hooks 🙁 In the end, Frankie has to rub my feet to warm them up, and we head back to Chaveney without the snowshoes. Even though our first snowshoe hike didn’t quite go as we had imagined, the outing was still interesting and a lot of fun.
An Americano at the “Boule de Neige”
Right at the parking lot, directly next to the ski lift, is the Boule de Neige. It’s already quite busy that day, but we still manage to find a nice spot. A hot Americano coffee feels great now and brings us back to life. In the afternoon, we return to the apartment, change quickly, and “dress up a bit.” After all, we still have a date at the “Bar à Fromage” in Cogne.
The drive there takes place in constant snowfall and requires a fair amount of driving skill because of the many tight curves. But the trip is worth it. The restaurant is part of the Hotel Bellevue. We order the goat cheese raclette and are initially a bit skeptical because the portion looks rather small. That feeling quickly disappears, though, as the cheese quite literally fills you up in no time. There is absolutely no room left for dessert.
Satisfied and very well fed, we return to the car two and a half hours later. I found the price-to-performance ratio at the Bar à Fromage to be very reasonable.
Encounter with the “Petit Bar” in Rhemes-Saint-Georges
The next day we want to give cross-country skiing a try. This, too, is a first for me, and it quickly becomes clear that standing on slippery skis—and especially skiing downhill—is not that easy. Despite hitting the ground twice, it’s still fun, if only my feet weren’t so cold. Well, that’s what nice places like the Boule de Neige are for, where this time I treat myself to a little aperitif after the exertion.
While we enjoy our drinks, a conversation turns to a bar we had noticed in passing on the road from Cogne to Rhemes-Saint-Georges. We had actually planned to stop there for a nightcap on December 24, but unfortunately the door was shut right in our faces just as we were about to enter. So today we decide to give it a second try. We immediately fall in love with the Petit Bar, located right on the main road. It’s a quaint pub run by a friendly elderly couple (or so I assume). The furnishings are simple and rustic, but cozy.
I order a second Aperol Spritz and look a bit puzzled when the drink appears deep red and without a straw. After the very first sip, it becomes clear that this institution does not skimp on alcohol. Before long, I’m quite tipsy. The big surprise, however, is the bill: we pay a mere €4.70 for an Aperol and a beer together. We rub our eyes, look at each other, and silently agree: this is officially our regular pub from now on! That said, once back home I have to lie down for an hour to shake off the buzz 🙂
Christmas Stroll in Aosta
The next day we need to restock on food. According to information online, the Conad supermarket near Aosta—more precisely in Sarre—is supposed to be open. Since we wanted to stop by the Christmas market in the provincial capital anyway, this works out perfectly. When we reach the supermarket in bright sunshine on this second day of Christmas (in Italy, this is St. Stephen’s Day), we’re quite astonished. The place is buzzing with activity, and as friendly and polite as Italians generally are, we discover that when it comes to grocery shopping, there is no mercy! People push and shove as if there were no tomorrow.
Completely stressed after the days of peace and quiet in our mountain village, we make sure to finish our shopping quickly and get out of there.
Arriving in the provincial capital of the Aosta Valley, we manage to snag a free parking spot near the city center. From there, we head to the Christmas market, which is very nicely and attractively set up. Unfortunately, it’s very crowded here as well. We escape to a lovely café and relax over a delicious Americano. And yes, secretly, we’re already longing to be back in the mountains.
Cross-Country Skiing Fun for Beginners in Valsavaranche
The next morning, we head back to Aosta right away, this time to the tourist information office. We want to take the Skyway up Mont Blanc on December 28. With our Aosta Valley Card we get a discount, but unfortunately it can’t be redeemed online. So we buy two tickets on site and also gather information about the surrounding castles and the Valsavaranche area. The latter is recommended to us as a beautiful, quiet valley with cross-country ski trails. Well, that sounds perfect. We stop in Dégioz, the seat of the local municipal administration, and first get an overview of the area.
On a lovely winter walk, we not only enjoy the peace and the wonderful weather, but also notice that in the village center there is something like a beginner’s loop for cross-country skiers—just right for me. To round off the day, I treat myself to four laps and realize that the fun increases with every single one. We absolutely have to end this wonderful day with another visit to our regular pub.
The Big Adventure: Skyway Monte Bianco
The next day brings the absolute highlight of this trip: the ride up Mont Blanc—or Monte Bianco, as the Italians call it. I admit I’m a bit excited, and I’m also slightly worried about the cold at that altitude. But everything turns out completely differently—and above all, much better! Even the drive to Courmayeur, the starting point of the adventure, is an experience in itself. Slowly, the sun rises over the surrounding mountains and bathes the peaks in a glowing red-orange light. My heart instantly soars.
When we arrive at the foot of the valley station, the parking lot is already quite shady. We first take refuge in the adjacent café to bridge the waiting time until our gondola ride. To our delight, we discover that despite being a major tourist attraction, an Americano here still costs only €2.50. Very commendable. At 9:00 a.m., our ascent to Punta Helbronner at 3,466 meters begins—definitely an experience of superlatives, and one that fully justifies the hefty ticket price of €52 per person (discounted). I’ve dedicated a separate post to this breathtaking once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Disappointment in Courmayeur
In a travel guide, I had read that the New York Times had supposedly listed Courmayeur as one of the 52 places worldwide you should see in your lifetime. Well then—since we were already there, we might as well check out the spectacle. After all, expectations are naturally high after reading that. Once we manage to snag a spot in the already quite full parking garage, we head into the town center.
My conclusion: if you’ve just bought a new fur coat and want to show it off, or if you’ve recently had cosmetic surgery that needs to be displayed, you’re in exactly the right place here. Everyone else may find Courmayeur just as disillusioning as we did.
For that reason, we simply continue on to the next small town called Pré-Saint-Didier and look for a nice café there. Once we arrive, we realize that this was a very good decision. Warmed up and once again at peace with the world, we drive back to our apartment satisfied and happy. The excursion to Monte Bianco, however, will stay with us for a long time to come.
Snowshoe Trails to Pila
The very next day, another highlight is already on our list: we head to Pila, the ski resort above Aosta. We’ve learned that on December 30 the traditional torchlight descent of the ski instructors takes place here. We want to buy cable car tickets in advance for this event. When we ask for tickets at the Pila tourist information office, it becomes clear just how big the spectacle really is—more than 10,000 spectators are expected for this special occasion. Wow. So we buy two cable car tickets from Aosta to avoid waiting in line later.
After that, we stop by the ski rental shop and rent snowshoes once again. We even get a trail map for free. We start our hike at the church in Pila, near the adventure park where children are sledding. Although we think we’re on the right path, at the latest on the way back we realize that we probably weren’t entirely on track. But no matter—the weather is great, the scenery is beautiful, and we’re having fun!
Back in Pila, we head once more to Aosta. On the one hand, we want to visit Gros Cidac, a megastore that supposedly has everything; on the other hand, we’re still looking for a restaurant for New Year’s Eve. Well, what can I say? I can only recommend Gros Cidac to true shopping addicts. I found it dreadful. The parking lot was terribly crowded two days before New Year’s Eve, and as soon as you got back into the car, people immediately asked when you were going to leave 🙁 Inside the supermarket itself, everything felt far too hectic and confusing—definitely not for me.
Finding a restaurant for New Year’s Eve also proves difficult. After several rejections and a lot of deliberation, we try Lo Meulet Blanc Ristorante e Pizzeria in Introd. On the one hand, the pizzeria has received good reviews online, and on the other, it’s only 10 minutes from our apartment—perfect. And best of all: the restaurant still has a free table for us! Great—New Year’s Eve is saved.
Sarre Castle: Guided Tours Only in Italian
When I wake up the next day, I already feel a bit weak. Oh no—is a cold coming on? Feeling quite under the weather, we start the day late and have only two things on the agenda: visiting the church in Introd and Sarre Castle. Oh yes, and in the evening we were supposed to go to the torchlight descent of the ski instructors—hmm, that’s probably not going to happen 🙁
We first drive from our apartment to Introd. In the evenings, we had often seen the illuminated church in passing, and now we want to take a look inside. What’s special about Introd is that the Polish pope, John Paul II, spent his summer holidays in the Aosta Valley ten times between 1989 and 2004. This is commemorated by the John Paul II House Museum, which can be visited in the village. On the day of our visit, however, it is unfortunately closed.
So we turn our attention to the church known as the Parish Church of the Conversion of St. Paul. In and around the church, the town feels quite busy. At first, we don’t understand what the crowd is waiting for. As we leave the religious building, it becomes clear that there seems to be a larger funeral taking place that day. It feels as if the entire village has come to say goodbye.
We continue on toward Sarre to visit the former hunting lodge of the Italian king Vittorio Emanuele II. At the ticket desk, however, we’re told that the building can only be visited as part of a guided tour—and that the tour is offered only in Italian. Unfortunately, that doesn’t make sense for us, so we leave without accomplishing anything. We then decide to drive to Aosta to return our tickets for the lift to Pila. Sadly, my cold has worsened, so an evening out in the cold would definitely be bad for me. It’s a real shame, because I would have loved to see the torchlight descent of the ski instructors, but there’s nothing to be done now. And since we’re already in Aosta, I use the time to buy a few gifts for friends.
New Year’s Eve Walk to Paradis du Coin
The next morning—or rather, during the night—I’m hit full force by the cold. That makes me a bit sad, especially now that we managed at the last minute to find a restaurant for our New Year’s Eve dinner. That’s just bad luck, I suppose. My energy only suffices for a short walk that takes us to the Brasserie Coin du Paradis. There, I do something for my immune system and treat myself to a freshly squeezed orange juice. The brasserie also has a small shop where you can buy basic necessities such as eggs, cheese, cold cuts, and a few household items.
Back at the apartment, we spend the evening quite cozily with a good, home-cooked meal and a movie. Our pellet stove provides a pleasant, comforting warmth. Admittedly, I had imagined New Year’s Eve in the mountains a bit differently. But oh well—we make the best of it.
The next morning, unfortunately, we have to pack our things and leave this cozy apartment and the lovely village of Rhemes-Saint-Georges. But who knows—maybe, just like John Paul II, we’ll simply come back again to the beautiful Aosta Valley someday!
