(Deutsch) Wandern im Aostatal
The Aosta Valley
The Aosta Valley, located in the northwest of Italy, is certainly one of the country’s lesser-known regions. On the one hand, this is quite undeserved — it is a superb area for hiking. On the other hand, this relative obscurity is a blessing: this beautiful corner of the world is not overcrowded. The Aosta Valley is surrounded by some of Europe’s most famous four-thousand-meter peaks — Mont Blanc, the Monte Rosa massif, and the Matterhorn. The region also boasts more than 100 castles!
Anyone who loves the tranquility of the mountains, who values nature, small villages, and stunning landscapes, will feel completely at home here. In summer, the area offers some of the most beautiful hiking trails, such as those in the Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso. During the warmer months, the valley is a wonderful hiking paradise with magnificent peaks, roaring waterfalls, winding valleys, and rich flora and fauna. In winter, it becomes an exceptionally attractive and challenging ski destination. The region also offers plenty of artistic and cultural highlights.
Pontboset: Sentiero dei ponti e degli orridi
My one-week hiking trip through the Aosta Valley had a lot to offer. I took the train from my hometown via Basel to Milan. From there, we were transferred in about an hour and a half to our first base — the small town of Pont-Saint-Martin.
The first thing that catches the eye is the old Roman bridge in the town center. It dominates the townscape and gives the place its name. This little town stands like a sentinel at the entrance to the Aosta Valley, where the mountain stream Lys flows into the Dora Baltea River. Pont-Saint-Martin is an excellent starting point for hikes in the Valle di Gressoney.
Our first hike, however, leads us to Pontboset, on the right-hand side of the Champorcher Valley. In this tiny village (about 175 inhabitants), the trail Sentiero dei ponti e degli orridi begins. We follow it for a while, walking through a beautiful forest whose floor is carpeted with chestnuts. After about an hour, we reach a lovely mountain waterfall — the perfect place for a rest. By now the sun has gained strength and warms our bones.
Forte di Bard
Toward the end of our hike, we pass through the villages of Champorcher and Hone before finishing in Bard. The town is dominated by the fortress of the same name. Bard is a small, picturesque place that is definitely worth a visit. After a sunny lunch break, we take the series of elevators up to the top of the fortress. Inside, several exhibitions are housed — including the Alpine Museum, the old prison block, and an impressive street art exhibition featuring works by Banksy, among others. Afterwards, we walk back down from Bard to Pont-Saint-Martin.
A Circular Trail in the Valle di Gressoney
The next day we take the bus to Gressoney-Saint-Jean. The closer we get to the mountain village, the colder it becomes — just six degrees when we step off the bus. Luckily, our route climbs immediately, and the sun slowly warms our bodies.
We follow a circular hiking trail above the Lys River, enjoying repeated views of the snow-covered Monte Rosa massif. During our picnic in an abandoned summer hamlet once used by farmers, we bask in the warm sunlight again. The descent leads past curious goats and even an Italian viper — which, to my surprise, crosses my path.
Back in Gressoney-Saint-Jean, we would have loved a coffee, but everything is closed until the start of the ski season on December 1st.
Lillianes and the Artists’ Village of Chemp
On the third day, we take another bus — this time to Lillianes, also in the Valle di Gressoney. From here the trail first follows the Lys River, then climbs steeply toward the “artists’ village” of Chemp. The ascent is quite demanding, especially given the unexpectedly warm temperatures.
At the top, we are amazed: the entire village is a work of art. Most of the sculptures are lovingly carved from wood and beautifully arranged. We spend our lunch break here before descending to the small town of Perloz. From there, we walk down through the vineyards, enjoying magnificent views of our destination, Pont-Saint-Martin. Through the narrow lanes of the town, we return to our starting point. In the evening, we drive from Pont-Saint-Martin to Aymavilles, our second hiking base.
Aymavilles in the Valle di Cogne
Aymavilles, with its striking castle, lies in the Valle di Cogne — one of the most beautiful valleys in the region and a gateway to the Gran Paradiso National Park.
The next morning, however, we first visit Aosta, the regional capital. In the morning, a guided city tour takes us to several highlights, including a monastery with a wonderful garden. The afternoon is free to explore. Since I’ve been to Aosta before, I feel drawn back to the mountains — I want to hike to Pont d’Ael. There is a circular trail from Aymavilles to this Roman bridge that begins at the Church of Saint Léger. The narrow path, which even passes through a tunnel, is quite spectacular — I really enjoyed it.
On the Camino Balteo to Aosta
The next day we return to Aosta, this time on foot. Starting directly from Aymavilles, we follow the Camino Balteo. First, we hike through forests, then vineyards, reaching the small village of Moline. The route continues through the Côte de Gargantua Nature Reserve, known for its particularly mild microclimate, and on to the village of Charvensod, where the descent to Aosta begins.
Along the way, we repeatedly enjoy fantastic views of the city and of the northern mountain ranges, including the majestic Grand Combin massif (rising up to 4,300 m) just beyond the Swiss border.
Back in Aosta, we have time once again for a coffee or an ice cream — this time at the beautiful café Paolo Griffa, located right on the main square.
The Lillaz Waterfalls
On our final day, we take what turns out to be the most beautiful hike of the trip. We ride the bus from Aymavilles up to the mountain village of Cogne. The Cogne Valley starts out narrow but opens into a broad plateau, at whose center lies the village itself, at about 1,500 m elevation.
The hike is fairly demanding, with several challenging sections to navigate, but the effort is well rewarded when we reach the Cascate di Lillaz — a spectacular series of waterfalls well worth the visit. After descending through the small village of Lillaz, we follow the Urtier River back to Cogne, where we celebrate the end of our trip with an aperitivo and a breathtaking view of Mont Blanc!
