Along the Mosel cycle path

Christina/ April 11, 2023/ Culture

The Mosel cycle path start at Koblenz and leads to Perl at the German-French-Luxemburg border. They say that the part between Koblenz and Trier is the most beautiful one. We want to ride the distance of about 220 kilometres in four days. Encountering more rollators than bicycles makes us think. During the last week of March it is still low season here. Not all pubs have opened yet, especially not the seasonal wine taverns. However the calmness can also be an advantage, as for now places such as Bernkastel-Kues, Beilstein and Cochem are not crowded yet by tourists.

When the saddle is frozen
When we start our journey to Koblenz on last Monday we witness beautiful winter weather. Sometimes it rains but most of the time it snows heavily. It is more Christmassy on the streets than in December. Reaching our boardinghouse at Koblenz-Güls it is really cold outside. It can hardly believe that we will be riding our bicylces by tomorrow. And actually on the next day not only the car has frozen glass plates but also the saddle of my bike. Still, the sun in the sky rises up and lets the ice melt.

After breakfast we ride to the small station of Koblenz-Güls and take the train to Trier. This is the start of our tour back to Koblenz. We are lucky as the railway was on strike the day before. Enjoying clear blue skies we ride from the train station to the Porta Nigra and thus reach the city centre. We push our bike to the central market place and turn right towards the cathedral St. Petrus. After the visit we stand outside in the shadow freezing. The temperature is about six degrees. It is time to get on our bikes and work up a sweat.

More rollators than bikes
We draw on our reserves. We leave Trier behind and move towards the Mosel cycle path. It still takes some time until we really leave the basin of Trier. We finally reach the river Mosel. The first interesting point on the way is the place Pfalzl. The Roman already settle down here for recreation. The palace from 350 is gone, the ramparts from 1539 can still be visited. Unfortunately the historical centre fell victim to an air raid in 1944.
We discover another piece from ancient Roman history: the Villa Urbana. In order to visit it we have to leave the Mosel cycle path and it is worth it. Above in the vineyards there is a gorgeous Roman country villa with bath, Caldarium and original pieces of the bathroom products. After the sightseeing – unfortunately only from the outside – we go back to the cycle path. Next station is the place Neumagen-Drohn. Once again the Romans left their marks here. We cylce on the Ausoniusstraße and pass by the replica of the famous Neumagener vine ship, that was once used as a decoration for the grave of a rich merchant.

We start looking for an accommodation for tonite. We try our luck at Piesport. We inquire at a wine-growery. Unfortunately the place is closed until tomorrow. With the help of the internet we find a lodging at Minheim which is the next village from here. From a wine vending machine we collect a bottle Auxerrois. A recommendable and rare grape variety. Having arrived at Minheim we cycle to the „Hotel zur Brücke“. Vito, the Italian Hotel owner, is already waiting for us. The whole complex seems to be in hibernation. We are happy that we found something. The rooms are simple but clean. The selection of food and drinks is seasonally limited. We pounce on the food whereas Vito tells us his life story. Tired from the first 60 kilometres we fall into our beds. Conclusion oft he day: we saw more rollators on the cycle path today than bikes.

Scenic old towns
The next morning the sky is overcast. It is drizzeling. We pack our stuff and leave the hotel. Vito does not serve any breakfast for the time being, „it is not worth it for two persons.“ Moreover he seems to sleep off his hangover from last night. Opposite the hotel there is a corner shop with a bakery. After the „standing“ breakfast we cycle back to the Mosel. Bernkastel-Kues is not far away the first urban hightlight on our way. You see more tourists here. There are already a few people walking through the alleys, the medieval market place is busy. We take a look around and push our bikes through the narrow streets, discover the so called „Spitzenhäuschen“ and the „Bernkasteler Doctor“ the most famous wine of the town.

Today’s goal is Traben-Trarbach. Passing by the „Kröver Nacktarsch“ we are lucky as the sun comes through the clouds for a while. That’s handy as we spotted the cloister Machern on the other side of the Mosel. It is time for a coffee break. In the middle of the wonderful landscape we enjoy the minutes of sunshine. A good-tempered waitress serves drinks and food. A nice place for a rest and relaxation.

A Lucullan indulgence
We move back to the Mosel cylce path. Again and again we pass by small villages with beautiful half-timbered houses and steep wine slops. Finally we reach Traben-Trarbach. Actually we intended to stay overnight, but we don’t like the place too much. We decide to move on. With the help of the internet we come across the hotel „Reiler Hof“. It is a very nice place with an attentive host. She recommends a diner place for us and makes a reservation. We order some filet of zander with a fantastic Riesling sauce. The next morning we enjoy a superb breakfast. It was a very good decision and a great start into this sunny day!

The black cat of Zell
Today we are heading for Cochem. On our way we pass by Pünderich. Directly at the cycle path the old ferry house catches our eye. Curious from this building we explore the rest of the small village. And indeed we discover more treasuries, such as the Eltzer Lehnshof, the Haus Schilling or the Zehnt- and Lehnshof St. Matthias. Fascinated by the beauty of the town we drive on and reach the „Black Cat of Zell“. The statue stands self-assured in the roundabout holding a wine goblet in her paw. Rumour has it that the cat has an excellent taste of wine.

Trumpery and trash at Cochem
The next highlight on our way is Beilstein. A really nice place. From a far you get the feeling you are in Scottland, from near in the medieval age. I guess that the village is packed in summertime. Unfortunately everything is closed for today. We have to move on. However Cochem is not far away. Shortly before we reach the city a heavy rainshower forces to take a coffee break. Fortunately it does not take too long. 15 minutes later the sun is back and shines on the Reichsburg Cochem. Due to our luggage we cannot visit the ramparts and therefore take the bridge over the Mosel to the city centre. The hilly and narrow streets with its half-timbered houses are very nice. Unfortunately the city is packed with stores selling „cheap tourist stuff“.

Being happy about the wonderful weather, we decide to move a little bit on. We cylce towards Müden and stay overnight at a place called „Balthasar“ which is located in a landmarked house.

Tired at Müden
Arriving quite tired at Müden, the sky gets overcast. Unfortunately the hotel owner is still en route. We find shelter in an entrance. Then the corpulent host opens up for us. The room is small, quite dark and cold. It seems that the heating has not been ventilated for a while. The gargling of the radiator does not stop. It also irritates me the host talks snidely about his former guests.

It does not go over well, in my mind. I don’t feel very comfortable here, but it is okay for a night. The next morning breakfast is served in the inn. The host wants to sit down where he wants you too otherwise he is afraid of one could make a mess on his tablecloth.

It was raining this morning. In the meantime the sun made it through the clouds. We have another 30 kilometres to Koblenz-Güls where our car is parked. This morning we pass by some castles and fortresses. Namely castle Liebig, fortress Thurant and castle von der Leyen. Regrettably heavy rain showers are reeling us in from time to time. We take shelter as good as we can. Afterwards weh ave to pedal as fast as we can to reach our today’s goal soonest. Close to Koblenz we quater for the next wo days at the hotel Hüttenmühle close to Hillscheid.

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