Cultural highlights of Georgia
Georgia has a lot to offer culturally.Unfortunately, I can only show a small selection here. Since the trip was essentially limited to the capital Tbilisi and the western part of the country (Svaneti), I cannot make any statements about the other regions. However, I believe that even these few glimpses are enough to see how beautiful the country is.
Churches, Monasteries, Cathedrals
We visited numerous churches, monasteries, and cathedrals from different centuries. At the very beginning of the trip, our guide explained that it is appreciated if visitors cover their heads with a cloth and wrap their legs with a skirt-like cloth when entering a church. Well, we are guests, so we adapt. These religious sites come from different eras, with the oldest dating back to the 6th century. In every one of these sites, you will find—usually in the form of an icon—a depiction of Saint Nino. According to legend, the Syrian Nino contributed to the Christianization of Georgia in the 4th century.
On the very first day of the trip, we started with the Jvari Monastery, the oldest church in Georgia and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The monastery is located on the Sagurani Ridge and offers a spectacular view of the former capital, Mtskheta. The church was built in the 6th century on the spot where Saint Nino is said to have erected a wooden cross.
The Fair around Svetitskhoveli Cathedral
After visiting Jvari Monastery, we continued toward Mtskheta, heading for the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. It was Sunday, and a three-hour service was being held inside, which meant we could only view the church from the outside. That was not so bad. What was truly annoying, however, were the food and trinket stalls surrounding the cathedral. It’s unbelievable what kind of cheap knickknacks are sold there. Well, supply and demand. Personally, though, I prefer the peace of a remote church. Although the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral is certainly worth seeing, I was glad when we left the bustle behind us.
According to legend, a Jew bought Jesus’ robe from a Roman legionary after the crucifixion and brought it to Georgia. Saint Nino eventually decided that this relic should be venerated exactly at the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers. The Svetitskhoveli Cathedral is the undisputed center of the old capital, Mtskheta.
The Fortress of Ananuri
We continued along the so-called Military Highway until we reached the fortress of Ananuri. About 60 kilometers north of the Georgian capital, Ananuri lies directly on the banks of the Aragvi River, overlooking the Jinvali Reservoir. The fortified church has served as fortress, castle, and monastery all in one, surrounded by green forests and the clear waters of the reservoir. The view from the complex can, in good conscience, be called spectacular. We took a brief look inside the church, lingered a while on the grounds, and then continued along the highway over the Cross Pass to Stepantsminda. We ended the day with a short but beautiful hike to the Gergeti Trinity Church high above the village of Gergeti.
The Cave City of Uplistsikhe
Three days and two hikes later, on the way to Gudauri, we stopped at the cave city of Uplistsikhe, dating from the 1st century BC. The site is vast and impressive, particularly the rock formations, some of which resemble faces, or the descent over a fairly steep, illuminated staircase. Although the site is quite touristy, the large area helps to keep crowds manageable. The grounds include the remains of palaces, several streets, and a theater. After the visit, we continued on to the country’s second-largest city: Kutaisi.
Before heading to the hotel, we visited another religious site just outside Kutaisi: the Motsameta Monastery. Once again, we entered a very beautiful complex with magnificent frescoes inside the church. After dinner at the hotel, we took a short evening walk and looked around the city center. Since the next day was a public holiday, the streets were lively. We were especially fascinated by the Colchis Fountain, lit in colorful lights. The fountain, located in the equally attractive Fountain Square, consists of several levels decorated with gilded animals and topped by a golden pair of horses.
Through the Green Bazaar
The next morning, a short city tour was on the agenda. The highlight was certainly a visit to the central market. Alongside culinary offerings such as Georgian sweets like churchkhela, one could find plucked chickens and other animals, numerous spice stalls, and schnapps sold in plastic bottles. The atmosphere was lightened by a man who spontaneously picked up a guitar and sang. After the market visit, we headed westward to Svaneti. Later, on the return journey from Svaneti to Tbilisi, we stopped again in Kutaisi to visit the magnificent Bagrati Cathedral, which towers spectacularly over the city. Along with the Colchis Fountain, the cathedral is surely the city’s most important attraction.
The Defensive Towers of Mestia
A few days later, we arrived in Mestia, the administrative town of Svaneti. The place is fairly bustling and has something of a backpacker atmosphere. The many defensive towers scattered throughout the town are striking. I love this type of architecture—it reminds me of Albania. After three more beautiful hikes, we traveled from Mestia further back in time to Ushguli.
Perhaps the Highest Village in Europe: Ushguli
Here we experienced the most “authentic” part of the entire trip. The village is very simple but breathtakingly beautiful in its layout. Right after arrival, we visited the Lamaria Church and climbed one of the defensive towers. In the evening, we went to the “village cinema” to watch Dede, an award-winning film by a local director. A very impressive film, highly recommended for anyone interested in the customs and culture of the country.
The Dadiani Palace in Zugdidi
On the way from Svaneti to Kutaisi, we visited one last cultural highlight: the former Dadiani Palace in Zugdidi. Dating from the 19th century, the palace cannot be compared with places like Sanssouci, Versailles, or Rundāle Palace. Nevertheless, the visit is worthwhile to round out one’s cultural impressions.
