A Girls’ Getaway in the Harz Mountains for My Birthday
A girls’ weekend in the Harz Mountains for my birthday — that was the plan this year. We set off on Saturday in the rain. First, I take the bus to Magdeburg. I even arrive there almost on time, where my friend is already waiting for me. We continue by car, taking the highway and then country roads to Güntersberge. We booked a “wellness weekend” at the HarzHotel in Güntersberge through an online portal.
As always, you form a rough idea beforehand of what the place might be like. Well, when we arrive, the first thing we notice is that there are no hotel parking spaces. At the reception, we’re told there’s a public parking lot across the street. Then we realize that the entrance area is quite chilly. The sauna operates only upon request, and otherwise there are no wellness options. The rooms — unfortunately — exude the charm of the 1970s. Sadly, there’s no kettle or coffee machine in the room either. Only a 0.5-liter bottle of herbal lemonade is provided. The bathroom is also very small and quite plain. A pity — we had imagined and hoped for something cozier.
Breakfast and dinner are included in the package. At dinner, we’re a bit surprised that the “regional menu” consists of only two courses — starter and main dish. My friend chooses the meat dish, while I opt for fish. Unfortunately, that’s a mistake, as the redfish fillet is very dry and barely seasoned. The side dish of vegetables and rice doesn’t convince either — the vegetables are overly firm and almost cold. The drinks are quite expensive, too. A shame — not a great start.
On the Way to Breitenstein
The next morning we start with the breakfast buffet. The selection is okay. Unfortunately, the homemade bread could use some improvement. There are three varieties — one is fine in both taste and texture, but another looks unappealing and tastes like nothing at all. The third one we couldn’t even try — it was so hard that even the electric knife couldn’t cut through it. Otherwise, there’s cheese, cold cuts, jam, fruit, muesli, dried fruit, and scrambled eggs. All in all, acceptable.
After breakfast, we head out for a short hike. Using Komoot, we find a route to Breitenstein. We start directly from town and first walk up to the “Bergsee” (Mountain Lake). Well, of course, it can’t compare to mountain lakes in the Alps, but it’s probably a nice destination in summer. The lake is also the starting point for several local hiking trails, including the Selketal Trail. Following the right bank, we begin our hike toward Breitenstein. We pass Katzsohlenteich pond, then cross dew-covered meadows, wander through the forest, and finally continue along field paths toward the village.
Once there, we’re briefly at a loss because there are no signs for the return route. We head toward the village center, but it’s completely deserted, so we turn around and keep looking for the way back. I have a hunch, but I’m not entirely sure. Luckily, we meet a local who must have noticed our puzzled faces. We chat a bit, and he shares some insider tidbits — for instance, that more and more Dutch people are buying holiday homes there, and that there’s only one bistro that opens for half a day, otherwise not much happens. It turns out my hunch about the way back was right: we turn right at the cemetery and head uphill. Once at the top, the trail is marked again. The man explains that the missing signposts below were probably removed due to roadworks.
Along the Selketal Railway
On our way back, we cross the tracks of the Selketal Railway. We hadn’t seen it until now. That weekend — November 2nd — it’s supposed to run for the last time before the winter break. And indeed, when we return to Güntersberge and reach the Bergsee again, we hear the cheerful toot of the little locomotive and spot the train along the left shore. We actually wanted to take a ride, but since returning would be complicated, we decide to skip it. Instead, we head toward the ice cream shop in Güntersberge for a coffee, but at the last minute we change our minds. Why? Because of a sign in front of the café advertising falcon flight shows on Sundays at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. I’m instantly thrilled — I love falcons!
So, we hop in the car and drive to the Eulenwelt Falkenhof Harz (Owl World Falconry). When we arrive, the place looks rather deserted. We spot the owner, who mumbles only, “The shows only run until the end of October.” Too bad — we’re disappointed, but there’s nothing to be done. So we decide to visit the Mousetrap and Curiosities Museum on the main street in Güntersberge.
Mousetrap and Curiosities Museum Güntersberge
And bingo — we’re luckier this time. We catch the second half of the last guided tour of the day and then have a lovely chat with the owner. She tells us in detail about the time when her husband — apparently an opera singer — was still alive and used to accompany the museum tours with music. After the German reunification, around 1991, the couple moved to Güntersberge, bought the dilapidated house and property, and spent years renovating it. The building became home to both of their collecting passions. In addition to special toilet seats from various eras, you can marvel at old household appliances. The mousetraps are personally and enthusiastically explained to us by the owner herself. A wonderful way to wrap up our first day in Güntersberge.
Unfortunately, dinner doesn’t exactly lift our culinary spirits again. I try the fish dish once more and am again served a dry, breaded flounder that’s nearly flavorless. Well, as the saying goes, “Hunger makes it go down.”
Sunshine in the Selke Valley
The next morning it’s quite cold at 6°C, but sunny. After breakfast, we drive to Alexisbad. We park the car near the beautiful Petrus Chapel and start our ascent to the “Verlobungsurne” (Engagement Urn) — one of the prettiest stamping points of the Harz Hiking Badge, in my opinion. The view from up there is truly magnificent, especially with the glorious sunshine and colorful autumn leaves. We follow the Cliff Trail toward Köthener Hütte — definitely my favorite stamping spot. It’s so romantic! Along the way, we find an educational trail and take photos of a variety of beautiful mushrooms glowing in the sunlight.
A little later, we reach the Köthener Hütte. Because it stands on an exposed ridge, the wind is quite strong. After photographing it from all sides, we move on. From Mägdesprung, we descend into the village of the same name. Oh dear — it hasn’t changed for the better since my last visit. Decaying houses as far as the eye can see. We immediately start our return route to Alexisbad along the Selketal Railway. We pass the Selke Falls and then make our way downhill back to Alexisbad. It was truly a lovely hike in perfect autumn weather.
Harzgerode Castle
To wrap up the trip, we plan to visit Harzgerode Castle, where there’s supposed to be a guided tour. We arrive in the small Harz town around 2:30 p.m. and ask about it at the tourist office. Indeed, the rooms of the former castle are open to visitors. A half-frozen gentleman welcomes us in the chilly halls and leads us through the grand rooms — hesitant at first, but warming up as we go. Upstairs, in what’s called the Fireplace Room, there’s an exhibition by a pair of brothers from Harzgerode. In the basement, old household tools and various exhibits from the Selke Valley’s history are displayed. Overall, the visit is quite worthwhile.
After the tour, we want to end the day with a coffee — easier said than done in Harzgerode, since few cafés are open on a Monday. Right across from the castle, we spot the café “Zur schönen Nüsslerin” (“At the Lovely Nut Lady”) — it sounds inviting. Inside, it seems to be a mix of guesthouse, coffeehouse, and general store. Over café crème, Baileys, and apple cake, we strike up a conversation with the owner. She too seems to have a collector’s passion — the room is filled with old coffee pots. After this little break in Harzgerode, we return to our hotel in Güntersberge, where we finish our last evening with a four-course dinner.
