Schluchstensteig: Stage three
The Next Morning – Goodbye Schattenmühle
The next morning, we’re really not sad to be leaving the Schattenmühle behind. Just a few steps from the accommodation, a steep path to the right leads us back onto the hiking trail. Today’s stage takes us from Schattenmühle to Fischbach. We don’t yet know that tonight we’ll be enjoying the best meal of the entire vacation! But first, we approach today’s stage with a bit of respect—it includes a total of 700 meters of elevation gain.
Onward to the Räuberschlössle
The first part of the route leads us along a path lined with plenty of larkspur flowers. According to the guide, today’s highlight is supposed to be the so-called Räuberschlössle, a small ruin perched on a rock above the Wutach river. Once we arrive, I have to admit the view is just “meh” in my opinion. So we move on quickly—before the crowds clog the trail.
We descend to the Stallegger Bridge, a renovated covered wooden bridge, which I actually find much more interesting. Then we pass the hydroelectric power station of the same name—the oldest river power plant in Baden.
Next, we come across a beautiful rest spot right by the Wutach. After a short break, it’s uphill again until we reach the confluence of the Rötenbach stream. We cross the Wutach at this point and continue toward the Haslach confluence, eventually entering the Haslach Gorge. This stretch of the Schluchtensteig is again stunningly beautiful and picturesque. From the Hölloch rock, we enjoy a magnificent view into the gorge. We descend to the Mühlenrundweg trail and continue along a lovely brook and past a waterfall heading toward Lenzkirch.
Coffee and Cake Break
We can hardly believe it—reaching Lenzkirch means we can finally take a proper lunch break: sitting down with coffee, cake, and all the treats the heart desires! Even better, we can stock up on supplies at the local supermarket. Jackpot! With full stomachs and well-stocked backpacks, we set off toward the day’s final destination. The only catch: most of the elevation gain is still ahead of us!
Climbing at Käskessele
Just after Schwende, right by the Schwendehof Käskessele, things get tough. The trail is nothing but uphill—and steep! Once we reach the playground at the top, we take a moment to catch our breath, have a drink, and then enjoy the descent to Hotel Hirschen. And this place is really good—fantastic restaurant, great terrace, beautiful surroundings!
Black Forest at Its Best
After a shower, the sun comes out in full force. Before dinner, I want to take a quick look around the village of Fischbach—and I’m blown away! I walk a bit toward Schluchsee. What a panorama! I just want to stay here forever, exactly as it is now: the sunlit meadows, the gorgeous backdrop, the abundance of spring flowers. What a feeling. But sadly, we have a dinner reservation at 7 p.m.—otherwise, I would love to stay longer.
Asparagus with Kratzete
Back at the restaurant, my eyes land on a dish of asparagus with Kratzete (a type of shredded pancake). First, there’s a fabulous Flädlesuppe (pancake soup)—nothing like the one from the day before! Then comes the asparagus, pancake strips, and pike-perch. It’s heavenly! Every bite is pure joy. What a dream day: an amazing hike, a perfect lunch break, and now this dinner. A day worth remembering!
