Tbilissi (Tiflis)
Tbili means “warm” in Georgian, and with the suffix -si it becomes “warm spring.” And yes, it really is warm in the Georgian capital. That becomes clear shortly after landing in the evening. With over thirty degrees and high humidity, we immediately start sweating. Later I learn that it stays this warm from May until the end of October. The very next day, the coolness of the morning draws me outside. Looking for an exchange office, I pass a small park with a wonderful view of the Kura River and the old town of Tbilisi. There I also meet my first “buddy,” one of the many free-roaming dogs. I notice a tag in the little creature’s ear and take it to be a tax tag. Later I learn that it’s actually a marker showing that the dog has been vaccinated by the city.
Back to the 13th Century
One thing we will become very familiar with on this trip: churches and monasteries. On the first day, we start with the Metekhi Church from the 13th century. Georgians place importance on women wearing a headscarf and a long skirt when visiting a religious site. Basically no problem, but in the heat it’s a bit of a nuisance. Still, we are guests after all. After the visit, we take the cable car up to the “Holy Mountain,” Mtatsminda. From here we enjoy a fantastic view of the city and also get a glimpse of the so-called Mother of Georgia. From the mountain, we take the stairs back down into the old town and pass by beautiful wooden houses. After about 10 minutes, we reach the Abanotubani district, known for its sulfur baths. The neighborhood reminds me, with its architecture, of Istanbul’s old town.
Hot Stuff
As midday approaches, the heat and humidity slowly become unbearable. We escape into a nearby café and treat ourselves to a homemade iced tea. A little refreshed, we dive even deeper into Tbilisi’s old town. We cross Meidan, a lively square with many restaurants and cafés, and continue toward the synagogue and then to the Sioni Cathedral. From there, we wander through winding alleys and along Agmashenebeli Avenue until we reach the Bridge of Peace. At least among tourists, it’s very popular.
The Leaning Tower of Tbilisi
We pass the Patriarchate of Georgia and the Anchiskhati Church from the 6th century to reach the Leaning Tower of Tbilisi. It is part of the Gabriadze Theater and another tourist highlight where visitors love to take pictures. By now, the temperature feels quite cozy—too cozy—and we are all hoping that our city walk will slowly but surely come to an end. First, however, we continue on to Freedom Square. A little further on, we arrive at the famous Rustaveli Avenue and the saving grace of the metro station, whose train takes us back to the hotel.
