{"id":38969,"date":"2026-07-06T09:46:07","date_gmt":"2026-07-06T07:46:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.christinaschlegl.de\/?p=38969"},"modified":"2026-07-06T10:35:08","modified_gmt":"2026-07-06T08:35:08","slug":"apulien","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.christinaschlegl.de\/en\/kategorien\/kultur\/apulien","title":{"rendered":"Apulia"},"content":{"rendered":"

Puglia \u2013 White Towns, Bread and James Bond<\/strong>
\nFor me, **Puglia** is all about the “white” towns of **Bari, Ostuni, Cisternino, Martina Franca**, and of course **Alberobello**. But Puglia is also **Gravina in Puglia**, best known for its impressive aqueduct, which even made an appearance in a **James Bond** film. And then there is **Altamura**, the southern Italian town said to produce the best bread in the country. Last but not least, Puglia is also **Trani**, a jewel on the Adriatic coast, and **Castel del Monte**, Emperor Frederick II’s remarkable octagonal castle. I know there’s much more to discover in Puglia, but unfortunately there simply wasn’t enough time during this road trip. Then again, that’s a perfect reason to come back one day.<\/p>\n

Street Food Festival in Bari<\/strong>
\nOur road trip through the three regions of southern Italy\u2014**Puglia, Basilicata, and Calabria**\u2014begins in **Bari**. We land at the airport on a Saturday morning and, after more than three hours, finally collect our rental car from the Europcar desk. We’re given an **MG**, an English car brand I’d never even heard of before. In hindsight, that was probably for the best. Apart from the fact that black leather seats are hardly ideal in the Italian summer heat, the navigation system seemed to be operating with road maps from the 1990s.<\/p>\n

We planned to spend three days in Bari before continuing to **Cosenza**. During our stay, we explored the old town (**Bari Vecchia**), visited the **Basilica of Saint Nicholas**, admired the **Norman-Swabian Castle**, passed the **Diocesan Museum**, and happened to witness the celebrations for the city’s patron saint, **Saint Nicholas**. Down at the harbor we wandered through a lively street food festival. As you would expect in Italy, every dish on display looked incredibly tempting. Unfortunately, after a sleepless night of travel we were completely exhausted, so we eventually returned to our hotel. That evening we found a lovely neighborhood restaurant and enjoyed the first swordfish of our trip.<\/p>\n

Citt\u00e0 Bianca, Baroque Splendor and Trulli<\/strong>
\nThe next day is packed with sightseeing: **Ostuni, Cisternino, Martina Franca**, and **Alberobello** are all on the itinerary. Looking back, I have to admit that squeezing all four into a single day was a little too ambitious. But then again, I simply couldn’t resist trying to see as much as possible! And it was absolutely worth it. We begin in **Ostuni**, the famous *White City*, perched on a hilltop. Its maze of narrow alleyways, countless archways, steep staircases, flower-filled balconies, and endless photo opportunities immediately win us over. We love every minute of it, even though the town is overflowing with tourists on this Sunday.<\/p>\n

We stroll from **Piazza della Libert\u00e0** up through the historic center to **Via Cattedrale**, eventually reaching the city’s highest point: the **Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta**. From there, we simply let ourselves wander through the labyrinth of winding streets, discovering charming corners around every turn.<\/p>\n

An Oriental Atmosphere in Cisternino?<\/strong>
\nOur next stop is nearby **Cisternino**. According to our guidebook, this little town overlooking the **Itria Valley** has an “Oriental atmosphere.” Well, having spent plenty of time in the Middle East myself, I have to disagree. That said, Cisternino is still well worth a visit. It may not be as elegant or glamorous as Ostuni, but perhaps that’s exactly what gives it its charm. As we wander through the old town, we discover poetry painted onto house walls, a bar devoted entirely to **25 different varieties of Aperol Spritz**, and strike up a conversation with the owner of an exceptionally cozy and beautifully decorated restaurant that immediately catches our eye.<\/p>\n

The countryside surrounding Cisternino also introduces us to our first **trulli**\u2014those fascinating whitewashed stone houses with their distinctive conical roofs and mysterious painted symbols.<\/p>\n

A Short Visit to Martina Franca<\/strong>
\nI don’t think we actually planned to visit **Martina Franca**. Well, sort of. We had to choose between **Locorotondo** and Martina Franca because there simply wasn’t enough time for both. For reasons I can no longer remember, we ended up driving to the Baroque town in the Itria Valley. What a lucky decision.<\/p>\n

I fell in love with this hilltop town almost immediately. Was it because of the breathtaking gowns designed by **Regina Schrecker**, displayed inside the **Palazzo Ducale**? Quite possibly. Or perhaps it was the beautiful **Piazza Immacolata**. Or maybe the ancient neighborhood known as **La Lama**, which the helpful lady at the tourist office had recommended to us. Probably a little bit of everything. The Palazzo Ducale was a complete surprise. We stepped inside this magnificent historic building and suddenly found ourselves surrounded by stunning couture dresses. I was completely captivated and couldn’t even decide which one I liked best. It was one of those unexpected discoveries that make traveling so rewarding. The exhibition was simply spectacular.<\/p>\n

But that wasn’t all. Another exhibition in the palace presented the exact opposite of elegance and beauty. It focused on *mostri*\u2014human monsters from both history and modern times. It was disturbing, thought-provoking, and deeply important in its message.<\/p>\n

An Architectural Gem<\/strong><\/p>\n

After such an intense lesson in history, it was time for something a little lighter. We headed to **Piazza Immacolata** and soaked up the atmosphere of this beautiful square, with its elegant semicircular arcade lined with inviting caf\u00e9s and restaurants. We took a well-earned break before wandering through the old quarter of **La Lama**. Martina Franca left a lasting impression on me. But there was still one more highlight waiting: **Alberobello**, the world-famous town of the trulli. So it was back into the car for the final stop of the day.<\/p>\n

We arrived in Alberobello in the early evening, just as the soft golden light was bathing the town in a magical glow. Fortunately, most of the day-trippers had already settled down for dinner, allowing us to explore the streets in relative peace. And yes\u2014even though I normally never buy souvenirs apart from fridge magnets, this time I made an exception. I couldn’t resist buying one of the traditional **fischietti portafortuna**, the lucky whistles that are said to drive away misfortune if you blow them three times with conviction. Sounds like a pretty good investment! After such a long day, hunger finally caught up with us.<\/p>\n

Our first attempt at finding dinner took us to a restaurant in Alberobello’s **Aia Piccola** district. We ended up in a charming vaulted cellar, but after looking through the menu we felt the prices were more than a little excessive, so we decided to try our luck elsewhere.<\/p>\n

Higher up the hill, near the church, we found a welcoming family-run restaurant serving excellent food at reasonable prices. To this day, however, I still can’t explain what possessed me that evening to order **an entire litre of wine** for the two of us!<\/p>\n

Via Francigena Pilgrimage Route \u2013 Don\u2019t Do It!<\/strong><\/p>\n

After the \u201ccity tour\u201d the previous day, we decide to go for a short hike today. We browse the internet and come across the Via Francigena pilgrimage route. Since we first want to visit the highly praised Castel del Monte, the stage from Trani to Barletta seems like a good choice afterward. It is Stage 5 of the pilgrimage route and is supposed to be a coastal walk, which sounds promising. From Barletta, we plan to take the train back to Trani, where our car is parked. First, however, a bit of history is on the agenda. Our guidebook describes Castel del Monte as the \u201ctowering and mysterious octagonal castle of Emperor Frederick II.\u201d It certainly sounds like a place you simply have to see. Upon arrival, we literally leave the first parking lot far below the site behind us and drive up the hill instead. As it turns out, this is a wise decision. We find a parking space almost right next to the castle for \u20ac5.00 (the lower parking lot costs the same) and follow the crowd toward the entrance. A school class is directly in front of us, and more buses are making their way up the hill. Naturally, souvenir vendors have positioned themselves on both sides of the path.<\/p>\n

However, I had also read in the guidebook that there is actually nothing inside the castle to see\u2014no furniture or exhibits, for example. We head to the ticket office anyway, where they ask for \u20ac10 admission per person. I ask the woman at the counter what there is to see inside. She pauses for a moment and then says, \u201cNothing,\u201d apart from the interior walls themselves. So we decide not to go inside, walk around the castle once more, and then continue on toward Trani. We find a good free parking spot near the train station and set off for the starting point of our hike. We pass Trani\u2019s beautiful harbor, the impressive Cathedral of Saint Nicholas the Pilgrim, and the Castello Svevo. Unfortunately, that marks the end of the picturesque scenery for the time being. The route follows a major road leading to an industrial area. We struggle through it and are almost ready to give up when we finally spot a sign for the pilgrimage route. At least we are close to the sea, so surely the trail must improve from here. Wrong!<\/p>\n

The path neither runs directly along the coast nor is it particularly walker- or joint-friendly, as we spend the entire time walking on asphalt. In addition, although it is not an official road, it is surprisingly busy, and apart from some shrubs in the distance, there is little to see besides industrial buildings on either side. In other words: don\u2019t do it!<\/p>\n

After three and a half hours, thoroughly frustrated, we finally reach Barletta. We treat ourselves to a cold drink near the town beach and recover a little from the ordeal. Then we cross the city toward the train station. Unfortunately, we have missed our train by ten minutes and now have to wait fifty minutes for the next one. On the bright side, the ride back to Trani costs only \u20ac1.30 per person and\u2014believe it or not\u2014the train is on time (greetings to Deutsche Bahn!).<\/p>\n

Hucksters, Touts, and Tourist Traps!<\/strong><\/p>\n

Back in Trani, we walk from the station to our car and drive back to the harbor, where we want to have dinner. We have already chosen a restaurant with a terrace and are about to sit down when a rather pushy employee\u2014whose job seems to be luring tourists into the restaurant, at least judging by what we observe\u2014shows us to a table. She talks to us incessantly at breakneck speed, trying to sell us expensive bottled water, appetizers, and other extras. As soon as she realizes that we only want to order a main course, her friendliness ends rather abruptly, and we are ignored for the rest of the evening\u2014which, to be honest, does not bother us too much.<\/p>\n

We have learned our lesson and will be more careful when choosing restaurants in the future. Nevertheless, we really liked Trani as a city, especially the area around the harbor, which is particularly beautiful in the evening when illuminated.<\/p>\n

The Aqueduct James Bond Jumped From<\/strong><\/p>\n

The next day, we leave Apulia and head for Calabria, more precisely to Cosenza. Only at the very end of our journey, on the last day in fact, do we return to visit Gravina in Puglia and Altamura. Gravina in Puglia is something like Matera\u2019s little sister. How did we discover it in the first place? Well, through James Bond\u2014or rather through his latest film. Several scenes were shot in Matera and in Gravina in Puglia, specifically on the aqueduct spanning the gorge. The bridge is 37 meters high, 90 meters long, and 5.5 meters wide. Overall, Gravina is much quieter and more peaceful than Matera. Naturally, there is plenty of activity on the aqueduct itself, since tour buses stop there as well. Besides visiting the bridge, it is definitely worth exploring the Chiesa Rupestre San Michele delle Grotte with its impressive crypt. <\/p>\n

From Gravina in Puglia, we continue on to Altamura, the city of bread. In the old town, this specialty is impossible to miss. In fact, it almost seemed as if there was a competition over which bakery could claim to be the oldest in the city. On one side, there is Antico Forno Santa Caterina, dating back to 1306, and on the other, Forno Antico Santa Chiara. The former has a slightly better location. Music is playing, bunting hangs everywhere, and lines of tourists gather outside its doors. We move on and, quite by chance, come across Forno Antico Santa Chiara. The atmosphere here is much calmer. There are a few shaded outdoor seats inviting visitors to take a relaxing break. And yes, of course we bought a loaf of bread. It was so fresh that it not only survived the flight back to Germany but also stayed fresh for another week afterward. That is what I call quality\u2014and it tasted delicious as well!<\/p>\n

After our snack, we visit the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta on Piazza Duomo along Corso Federico II. It is truly impressive and very beautiful. We end the day, however, with a visit to Caf\u00e9 Roncchi, where we are eager to try the \u201cPadre Peppe,\u201d a walnut liqueur. It is a wonderful conclusion to a successful day and an outstanding road trip.<\/p>\n

If you’d like, I can also adapt the translation into a more polished travel-blog style with a more natural, idiomatic English tone.<\/p>\n