Schluchtensteig: Stage six
Today, we set out for the final stage of the Schluchtensteig. Unfortunately! The last section is quite challenging: with an ascent of 585 meters and a descent of 1,041 meters. Additionally, the temperatures have risen significantly in recent days, from 11 degrees Celsius on Wednesday to over 20 degrees today. After a very delicious breakfast (many thanks to the wonderful host of the Wehrahof!), we first head to the local supermarket to replenish our water supplies. Then, we begin the first ascent. From the supermarket, we go up to the rehabilitation clinic and from there into the shady forest. We pass by a few typical Black Forest houses and a sawmill, entering the Wehraschlucht in the Hotzenwald. Along the way, we pass a Buddhist community and a game reserve. At the latter, we are alerted to a stag. Well, we have already seen stags at the Wildgehe St. Blasien, so we skip the detour here.
Lunch break at lofty heights
After crossing the Wehratalstraße, the path becomes not only more beautiful but also more interesting. We walk up and down on narrow trails. At a particularly exposed and beautiful spot, we take a break. We find a bench with a direct view of the Wehratalstraße, which goes quite deep down! A great place for a picnic lunch. And as it turns out over the rest of the day, this is the most beautiful spot of the entire stage. Refreshed, we continue. The hiking trail remains narrow, which we like. At a viewpoint, we finally manage to look all the way to the Swiss Alps. It’s a very uplifting feeling! We then continue directly along the Wehra River. I find that the sound of flowing water always has a calming effect.
In the Bannwald
The trail in the so-called Bannwald (protected forest) becomes increasingly narrow and tangled. Sometimes it goes steeply uphill, sometimes we lose height. Occasionally, there are beautiful views. We listen to the birds singing and enjoy the still pleasant warmth of the sunshine. On the final stretch toward Wehrtalstausee, however, the path becomes less attractive. We walk partly on concrete paths, unprotected from the sun. Now we slowly feel the kilometers from the past days. Our enthusiasm wanes a bit; we look forward to the hotel room and a shower. The Wehratalsperre (dam) and the reservoir are rather unremarkable. For this reason, we don’t linger here. Luckily, our hotel today is again right on the trail! We head to the Klosterhof on the outskirts of Wehr. Here, we are warmly welcomed by the host, who also has a few tips for our journey home tomorrow. Since it’s about 1.5 kilometers from the hotel to the train station, he recommends taking a taxi to the next station in Wehr-Brennet, as there is only a bus in Wehr itself. That sounds like a good idea to us.
Dinner in a historic setting
Unfortunately, the restaurant at the Klosterhof is closed on this day, so we need to find an alternative in the town. After a refreshing shower and changing clothes, we walk toward the town center. Along the way, we meet two other hikers whom we’ve gotten to know during the week. We’re feeling quite thirsty for coffee. In search of a café, we pass by both the Old and the New Castles. That already counts as two important sights checked off our list. However, in the town, we realize that finding a bistro isn’t as easy as we thought. During our search, we come across the Gasthaus Krone, a historic place in the town.
The Arrest of Gustav Struve
In 1848, the Krone was the site of the arrest of Gustav Struve, the last leader of the Baden Revolution, bringing an end to the dream of democracy. Betrayed by the innkeeper of the time and arrested by the mayor of Wehr, thanks to Struve—this last hero of resistance—the Krone today is a rare historical gem. Since the Krone also happens to have a very nice beer garden, we settle in here with a Radler (a beer-lemonade mix) to celebrate our hiking week properly. A look at the menu also reveals that this place is perfect for dinner later on.
Climb to the Werrach Castle Ruins
But before we settle comfortably for asparagus & Co., we treat ourselves to the short but steep ascent to the Werrach Castle Ruin. Well, as is often the case with ascents, we are rewarded afterward with a fantastic panoramic view—just like here. On the walls of the viewpoint, we read the story of the minnesinger Walther von Klingen. After so much activity and culture, we’re truly hungry now. We walk back to the Gasthaus Krone and end the evening with a leisurely, delicious meal. We had a really good time here with wonderful (nature) experiences. We can wholeheartedly recommend the Schluchtensteig.