Matera in Basilicata: Following in James Bond’s Footsteps
Basilicata may not be the best-known region in southern Italy. I certainly hadn’t heard much about it until—well, until I watched the last James Bond film, *No Time to Die*. And then, right at the beginning of the movie, there was this scene set in a stunning town somewhere in Italy. My only thought was: *I have to go there someday—no matter what!* Well, it took a few years, but this spring the time had finally come. And once again, my intuition proved right. The moment we arrived in Matera and caught our first glimpse of the old town, it quite literally took my breath away. The city is so unbelievably beautiful that I can hardly find the words to describe it. I’ve traveled to quite a few places around the world, but Matera truly is something extraordinary. Even though I usually think the expression is a bit over the top, I was genuinely blown away!
A Sight to Remember Forever
We spent three wonderful days in and around Matera. The borders between the regions of Basilicata, Calabria, and Puglia seem almost to blur into one another. Both Pollino National Park stretches across multiple regions, and so do the filming locations from the Bond movie. While Matera itself is in Basilicata, the aqueduct that James leaps from in the film is located in Gravina in Puglia—just as the name suggests, in the region of Puglia. But wherever we went, one thing remained the same: it was simply beautiful. We enjoyed breakfast each morning at Hotel Belvedere. As the name suggests, the breakfast terrace offers an absolutely spectacular view over Matera’s old town. With an excellent buffet and exceptionally friendly and helpful staff, it was surprisingly difficult to tear ourselves away from such a wonderful place and set off on new adventures.
From the hotel, it’s only a short walk to the historic center. Naturally, on our first day we couldn’t bring ourselves to leave it, instead wandering through its narrow streets and constantly stopping to admire the countless picturesque views around every corner. One thing that immediately caught our attention was the suspension bridge spanning the Gravina Gorge (the river itself is called the Gravina), leading across to the ancient cave dwellings. We decided to save that experience for the following day.
We took a relaxing break at the lovely Zipa Café, where we had a perfect view of the lively little streets below. And although Matera is certainly a popular tourist destination, visitors are spread out remarkably well, making it easy to find quiet corners where you can simply stroll and soak up the atmosphere.
A Panoramic Hike Around Matera
On our second day, it was finally time for the panoramic hike around Matera. One thing should be said right away: if you want to cross the gorge, you’ll need a ticket—and a pair of sturdy hiking boots. Crossing the canyon in flip-flops isn’t permitted, and honestly, I wouldn’t recommend it anyway. Parts of the trail are narrow, rocky, and quite uneven—but also incredibly beautiful. Walking across the suspension bridge over the Torrente Gravina is an experience in itself. And once you reach the cave dwellings and look back at Matera’s old town, the view is simply unforgettable—a moment that will stay with you forever. The rest of the hike is no walk in the park either, and not just because of the sights along the way. We passed the rock church of San Vito and the ancient ruins of Matera before the trail became significantly more challenging. My goal was another filming location from *No Time to Die*: the Madonna delle Vergini, where James is said to mourn the loss of his former love, Vesper.
Heat, Tall Grass, and No Trail
This is where things really started to separate the casual hikers from the determined ones. Up until this point, the trail had been easy to follow. Suddenly, everything changed. The path was almost completely overgrown. We pushed our way through waist-high grass, and I tried very hard not to think about all the ticks that were probably lurking there. To make matters worse, the sun beat down mercilessly on us. Still, we kept going, fighting our way across the fields. After what felt like forever—and with our patience beginning to wear thin—we finally reached the Madonna. Well, almost. The first thing we found was a battered metal sign pointing toward the rock church. I have to admit that the remains of the church itself (essentially only the entrance portal is left to see) weren’t particularly impressive. Still, we could tick it off our list and begin the long journey back to Matera. We were on the trail for quite some time, passing the La Palomba Sculpture Park along the way. To be honest, we didn’t find it especially remarkable. What impressed us much more was an unexpected “Stonehenge” just a few hundred meters farther on.
A Stonehenge-Like Lost Place
We certainly hadn’t expected that. We stumbled across what looked like an abandoned quarry and discovered fascinating rock formations that somehow reminded me of Stonehenge. Eventually, thoroughly exhausted and nearly dying of thirst, we reached the modern part of Matera and gratefully collapsed into the first decent bar we came across. It had been a demanding hike all the way around Matera—but an unforgettable one.
Following James Bond Once More
On our third day, we continued tracing James Bond’s footsteps, this time heading for the aqueduct in Gravina in Puglia. Although this meant temporarily leaving Basilicata, it still felt very much like part of the same journey. Gravina in Puglia is, in many ways, a smaller version of Matera. The area around the aqueduct—as well as the rest of the town—is absolutely worth exploring. Better still, it’s nowhere near as crowded, allowing you to wander at your own pace. From Gravina, it’s only a short drive to the “City of Bread”: Altamura. Naturally, I couldn’t resist visiting one of the city’s oldest bakeries, Forno Santa Chiara. We enjoyed a well-earned break at a shady café beneath the trees and took one of their delicious loaves of bread with us.
Afterward, we visited Altamura’s magnificent cathedral before finishing the day with a “Padre Peppe” hazelnut liqueur at the legendary Café Roncchi. I can hardly imagine a better way to end such an incredible day.
