Corona diary: the terrassed vineyard of Kaatschen

Christina/ November 17, 2020/ The daily grind

I’ve already been to the kingdom of heaven last weekend, at that time I continued in direction of Bad Sulza. This time I wanted to do the same on a different path, i.e. via wine village Kaatschen. Unfortunately the dwindling daylight put a spoke into our wheel. So we did not made it to Bad Sulza. Still it was a nice walk with interesting encounters.

Take off at the Kingdom of Heaven
We park our car on the parking lot at the Himmelreich. It is the first time for Christian and he really likes the view onto the Saaletal. Good start. We hike in direction of Saaleck. We walk downhill and cross the bridge over the Saale. We continue uphill and follow the signs to Camburg/Kaatschen. It is getting really idyllic: Cows, sheeps and wonderful landscape. It feels like being in a another world without this Corona-madness. The hike leads us to Rödigen. At this point we lose our way and arrive at Tutlewitz. We walk via the Bünauer Berge into the foresst and reach the panoramic walk of Kaatschen, a superb piece of earth.

The terraced vineyard of Kaatschen
We take a short rest high above the vineyards. As we are not quite sure about the further route we approach a man looking over the vineyards. He confirms our plans and tells us that he build this wall that terraces the place. We learn that we stand in front of the only terraced vineyard of Thüringen.

Lo and behold! We leave Kaatschen via the bicycle path to Großheringen. We take the „Straße des Friedens“ (street of peace) and reach the Waldstraße which leads us to the forest and later on to Bad Sulza. Almost. We pass by the estate Großheringen which is not only biker-friendly but that also hosts cats.

Further up the road we meet some goose that look quite nervous to me. I wonder whether they are already afraid of Christmas? We follow the panoramic walk into the forest and then turn right. We ignore another junction and walk downhill.

„This is already the kingdom of heaven“
After having reached another junction we are missing the signposting. We are in the dark. Fortunately we pass by a house. A couple sits in front of the house drinking tea. We ask for the way to Bad Sulza. Hm that does not sound too easy. We should pass by the Sonnenburg that we have already seen on the horizon. We do not make it to Bad Sulza. It is already half past two, two more hours and the sun will go down.

The lady tells us that the Sonnenburg is a private path that is closed for hikers. Shit, what to do? She says there is another way which is, however, not really safe: „You have to go through a tunnel and you should be careful. You would not be the first one to go to rack.“ Well that does not sound to promising. „We need to go back to the kingdom of heaven“ I interpose. The spouse answers: „But the kingdom of heaven is already here.“ We laugh.

The vineyards above Großheringen
Instead of walking on the street we decide to take the secure cycle path to Großheringen and leave out the Sonnenburg. At the train station of Großheringen we hike uphill in direction of Sonnendorf and take a look at Bad Sulza from above. Then we take the path via the vineyards back to the kingdom of heaven.
The panoramic path above Großheringen is very nice, especially within the autumn sunset light. We are enthusiastic, virtually thrilled by the landscape, the autumn colours and the warm light. The sheeps grazing look so idyllic, we feel like being at Ireland or within a Rosamunde Pilcher movie.

We walk the remaining path back to the kingdom of heaven totally enchanted. We take our last pictures, walk down to Großheringen and hike along the ridge of the forest and later on within the forest back to our starting point. Punktually at sunset we are back. What a day and what a termination of this nice long summer and autumn.

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